Part of the neat thing about the induction heater when used to anneal is the very small heat affected zone that can be obtained.
Throwing a chamber cast, while is sounds neat will provide you with nothing that can't gleaned from a fired case. You should be able to quickly tell which chamber is tightest and use that means to separate your brass. It will act as a very simple GO / NOGO gauge. If you insert a fired case into each chamber it will tell you which chamber is tighter. 001 inch which is fine for your purposes. You can measure any discernible differences in the cases with a with a $40 Walmart micrometer It will be accurate withing. That will put them back to an annealed state. Stand them in 1/2 inch of water and heat the necks and shoulder angle to dull red and tip them over in the water. Its to hard to be stretched that quickly. The violence from being suddenly final formed is cracking it. When brass is worked slowly in steps it gets hard but it can be worked in this manor without breaking but fire forming is different. I assume you made it from 30-30 or 225 Winchester. The brass has not gotten hard because of firing, it has more probably gotten hard from being worked from its parent cartridge. Its a hard brass problem as mentioned above.
You will learn nothing of value in this case. Don't waste your time casting the chamber. HOWEVER, if the cases are cracking in the neck the BRASS is too hard and needs to be annealed. It is MOST common in cases that have been work hardened by re-forming. I have seen this problem with new unfired brass as well as once fired brass. By standing it in the water you insure that you do not get the cartridge head too hot (annealing the head is not a good thing). Don't worry that the shoulder gets hot, that wont hurt a thing. Heat the NECK of the case to a dull red with a propane or MAPP gas torch (don't get it so hot that you melt the brass) then knock the case over into the water. Place a cartridge standing up in the partial filled pie pan. The easiest way I know of to anneal cases without a bunch of hassle is to use a pie pan deep enough to fill with water so that when you lay the case down it is COMPLETELY covered. Because this involves heating the case the bullet, powder and primer must be removed. You need to break down the loads and anneal the cases. The brass is harder than it should be causing the cracks when the brass expands at the neck. Regardless of which barrel they were fire formed in the necks expand a little when fired and you will have the problem in both barrels. The Contender frame has two firing pins, and a selector on the exposed hammer, to allow the shooter to choose between rimfire or centerfire firing pins, or to select a safety position from which neither firing pin can strike a primer.It is NOT the chambers causing the problem. This allowed easy changes of calibers, sights, and barrel lengths, with only a flat screwdriver being required for this change. A barrel of another caliber or length can be installed and pinned in place, the fore-end replaced, and the pistol is ready to shoot with a different barrel and pre-aligned sights. Since the sights and extractor remain attached to the barrel in the Contender design, the frame itself contains no cartridge-specific features. By removing the fore-end, a large hinge pin is exposed by pushing this hinge pin out, the barrel can be removed. The most unusual feature of the Contender is how the barrel is attached to the frame. 357 Mag, 44 Mag, 45 Colt/ 410 Gauge with sights, 44 Mag "Super 14", and installed on the pistol is 45 Colt/ 410 Gauge with a Leupold M8-4x Extended E.R.
0 kommentar(er)
